To describe the majestic Hagia Sophia in Istanbul as an ancient orthodox church-turned-cathedral-turned-mosque-turned-museum is accurate but woefully inadequate
Lakshmi Sharath/Lakshmi Sharath - The ceiling of the historic Hagia Sophia in Istanbul
I am on the road, travelling from one continent to another. My destination is the European quarter of the old city, Istanbul. A melange of cultures across different timelines merges here as the Bosphorus Strait bridges Asia and Europe in this ancient city. The skyline of Istanbul appears around me, dotted with minarets and mosques, palaces and churches, and each one of them has a story to tell. There are the Topkapi Palace and the Blue Mosque, but if there is one monument that can tell the story of Istanbul, it is Hagia Sophia. To me this 1,500-year-old building mirrors the history of the city itself. An ancient orthodox church-turned-cathedral-turned-mosque-turned-museum, this 6th century monument, Aya Sophia takes you through the turn of history in this city from the era of Byzantine Emperor Justinian to King Mehmet II of the Ottoman dynasty.
Hagia Sophia has been built and rebuilt to remain ageless and timeless. The earliest church was built here in the 4th century and rebuilt a century later, only to be razed to the ground by a fire during a revolt. Even today, remnants of the second church can be found here. In the 6th century the present church was commissioned by Emperor Justinian and it was considered an architectural marvel of the Byzantine Empire. My guide tells me the architects were a physicist and a mathematician chosen by none less than the king himself. For more than 900 years, it was the symbol of Orthodox Christianity until the Ottoman Empire took over this region.
Relics and symbols of both faiths reside in this marvellous piece of Byzantine architecture. Glittering mosaics and marble pillars hold your attention, but what really takes your breath away is the massive 105-foot dome towering 180 feet above my head. My guide adds that it rivals Rome’s Pantheon, whose dome is slightly bigger. Sitting beside two smaller domes, this rests right in the centre.
A 9th century mosaic depicting the Virgin Mary with an infant Jesus in her arms, flanked by the Roman emperors …
I am fascinated by the ancient mosaics created in the 6th century that depicted Jesus, Virgin Mary, kings and queens. Almost every wall of the ancient Byzantine cathedral is decorated by these mosaics. Above the imperial door is a 9th century mosaic, which shows Christ blessing a king. Another mosaic shows Virgin Mary with an infant Jesus in her arms, flanked by the emperors Justinian and Constantine. It is believed that the former king is holding a model of the church while the latter is showing a model of the city named after him. The golden background to the mosaic on the apse is believed to be from the original church. Most of the ancient mosaics were destroyed at different periods of history and were covered for centuries but some were restored and copied later.
Hagia Sophia was converted into a mosque when Mehmet II conquered Istanbul, then known as Constantinople, after a 50-day siege. It was believed that the Prophet Mohammad had mentioned that the first Muslim to pray in Hagia Sophia would go to heaven. It became the Imperial Mosque and even the adjacent Blue Mosque, built much later, was inspired by it.
But there is a mysterious side to the Hagia Sophia. Tunnels were built below it and it is believed that they spanned the ancient city of Constantinople. As the city was constantly under attack, precious stones and treasures were said to be buried underneath as well. Even today, the monument keeps its shares of secrets.
Light filters through the windows lending a mystical feel to the monument. I linger for a while, walking around, and then finally head out towards the Blue Mosque.
Getting there
Istanbul is well connected to all Indian cities in India. Turkish Airways is the preferred airline and there are flights operating out of Mumbai and Delhi.
No comments:
Post a Comment