A whale for dinner


The whole town of Barrow, Alaska, gathers for a momentous event. The subsistence-fishing Irupiat whalers of the region celebrate as a 60-foot Bowhead Whale is hauled in from a boat. The catch is significant - it will provide the entire community with food for the harsh winter that is slowly closing in. In the biting cold, the community hacks away, cutting, slicing up the whale. Following tradition, a section of the skin and blubber will be reserved for the captain of the boat, who will open his home to the community for a feast in the coming days.
This photo-essay by photographer Gregory Bull documenting the way of life of a people through a single event is a feast of visual richness.
 In this Oct. 7, 2014, photo, a cutter slices through skin and blubber atop a bowhead whale in a field near Barrow, Alaska. Following tradition, a section of the skin and blubber will be reserved for the captain of the boat, who will open his home to the community for a feast in the coming days.

 In this Oct. 7, 2014, photo, a whale is pushed onto a frozen metal landing strip for butchering in a field near Barrow, Alaska. The whales, which can reach sixty feet in length and weigh more than 100 tons, can take a Herculean effort to move, both at sea and on land.

 In this Oct. 7, 2014, photo, Qaiyaan Aiken, second from left, walks his son along the giant mouth of the bowhead whale he harpooned, after making his way back to shore near Barrow, Alaska. The skills for the hunt are learned first by watching, and then by doing, as the tradition is passed forward.

 In this Oct. 7, 2014, photo, a boy holds on to the baleen of a bowhead whale before work begins to butcher the whale near Barrow, Alaska. A chilly celebration takes place on the frozen fields as a whale is brought ashore. The hours-long process of butchering the whale brings the town together for the event.

 In this Oct. 7, 2014, photo, Qaiyaan Aiken, center, gets a hug from his wife as he is congratulated for harpooning a bowhead whale after making his way back to shore near Barrow, Alaska. The crews that bring in a whale are celebrated in town, and their stories of exactly how the whale was harpooned are heard throughout town.

 In this Oct. 7, 2014, photo, Fredrick Brower, center, helps cut up a bowhead whale caught by Inupiat subsistence hunters on a field near Barrow, Alaska. Drawing on tradition, and keeping within the closely monitored Aboriginal subsistence whaling guidelines, a bowhead whale is carved and divided by a crew armed with knives and hooks, and then shared according to custom.

 In this Oct. 7, 2014, photo, a cutter takes a break and drinks a soup of boiled bowhead whale meat and blubber while butchering a whale in a field near Barrow, Alaska. As workers continue with the cutting and hooking of the whale blubber, others prepare a soup to warm the crews.

 In this Oct. 7, 2014, photo, men in boots move through blood from a bowhead whale as they finish with the butchering process on a field near Barrow, Alaska. After a whale is divided and shared, blood and some remains are hauled off farther from town.

 In this Oct. 7, 2014, photo, cutters divide sections of skin and blubber while butchering a bowhead whale in a field near Barrow, Alaska. Young whalers often learn to help in butchering by learning to use the hook to pull off the giant slabs of skin and blubber. Later, they may move to the more skilled task of cutter.

 In this Oct. 7, 2014, photo, a cutter slices through skin and blubber atop a bowhead whale in a field near Barrow, Alaska. Blades lashed to poles are are used to cut down through the blubber in sections, to be hooked and hauled off.

 In this Oct. 7, 2014, photo, an Inupiat whaler looks on from a boat on a trailer as a bowhead whale is hauled onto shore after a catch near Barrow, Alaska. During the fall, whaling is done in small boats and few crew members. Once a whale is caught, it is pulled ashore by the tiny boats, in an effort that often takes hours.

 In this Oct. 7, 2014, photo, Crawford Patkotak carries a harpoon attached to a buoy after his crew landed a bowhead whale, as the whale is hauled ashore in a field near Barrow, Alaska. Most members of a whaling family pitch in once a whale is caught. Often, three generations of a whaling family are at the task of butchering and dividing the whale.

 In this Oct. 7, 2014, photo, a man hauls whale blubber as a bowhead whale is butchered near Barrow, Alaska. The whale skin and blubber, known as muktuk, is prized by the Inupiat, and often eaten frozen.

 In this Oct. 7, 2014, photo, family members and friends of the Anagi whaling crew celebrate the capture of a bowhead whale after it was brought ashore near Barrow, Alaska. The celebration begins earlier in the town when a whaling captain radios to shore, "hey, hey, hey!," a sign to all of a captured whale. From there, news spreads. By the time the boats and whale make it to shore hours later, much of the town is there to greet the hunters.

 In this Oct. 7, 2014, photo, Molly Pederson, right, and daughter Laura Patkotak take a picture as a bowhead whale caught by Alaska Native subsistence hunters from their family is brought ashore in Barrow, Alaska. Whaling is a community event in Barrow, as family members and town residents race to the beach to congratulate the hunters and help to butcher the catch.

 In this Oct. 7, 2014, photo, men haul sections of whale skin and blubber, known as muktuk, as a bowhead whale is butchered in a field near Barrow, Alaska. Once divided, muktuk is shared throughout the community. Some sections are even placed into duct-taped coolers and shipped by plane to elders living in warmer climates farther south.

 In this Oct. 7, 2014, photo, a light running on a generator illuminates a man as he passes the giant bones of a bowhead whale in a field near Barrow, Alaska. Whale bones are coveted by many in Barrow, often used to adorn the grave sites of loved ones.

 In this Oct. 7, 2014, photo, Crawford Patkotak, above center, leads a prayer flanked by his sons Josiah, in green suspenders, Arnold, in white bib, and Samuel, fourth from right, after his crew landed a bowhead whale near Barrow, Alaska. Both revered and hunted by the Inupiat, the bowhead whale serves a symbol of tradition, as well as a staple of food.

 In this Oct. 7, 2014, photo, Kendra Aiken stands wearing a parka made by her grandmother, as she poses for a picture for her parents in front of work on a bowhead whale in a field near Barrow, Alaska. Children of Barrow too small to help with the hooking and cutting, are still brought down to the whale, while family members point and explain the process.

In this Oct. 7, 2014, photo, a cutter stands atop a bowhead whale as work continues into the night, dividing the whale for the community on an field near Barrow, Alaska. The bowhead whale, which can weigh 100 tons, is valued to the Inupiat community, who use the meat, baleen, bones and organs for food, art, household goods, and construction.


7 Must-Visit Places In Singapore That Will Make Your Honeymoon Memorable



Honeymoon is one of the most important times in the life of a newlywed couple. This is when, both the partners get to spend a lot of time together, and know each other well. As there is no one to disturb them on this romantic getaway, a picture-perfect location with a lot of romantic spots is all that they need to make this trip an unforgettable affair.
Well, if you are also on a lookout for the perfect destination for your honeymoon that offers you various places to get cosy with your partner, then Singapore is the place for you. It has many unusual spots that can make your honeymoon all the more romantic and memorable. So, take a look at some of the most beautiful places of Singapore that can make your honeymoon memorable.


#1. Gardens by the Bay





One of the top 10 indoor gardens of the world, the Gardens by the Bay, is a beautiful biome. There are several exotic plants in this place from every continent except Antartica.







 Furthermore, there are gorgeous nature trails where you can take a romantic stroll with your partner. And while doing so, do not miss admiring the water and energy conserving Supertrees- very high trees extending into the sky.




#2. The Chocolate Bar



There is nothing that spells romance more than chocolates. Indulge in a sweet buffet at the Cheese and Chocolate Bar in the Sands SkyPark hotel, and go wild choosing from a large variety of handcrafted desserts.







 Located at the 57th level, this place will also allow you and your partner to enjoy a striking night view of the city.




#3. Fort Canning Trail



Hailed as one of the most popular spots for lovers, the Fort Canning National Park, allows you to enjoy each other’s company amidst the lush greenery. You can follow the well-marked trails and learn about the Singapore's history while enjoying a wide variety of the local treats at various eateries.







 En route, you will come across a lot of vintage buildings that might interest you, such as Chesed-El Synagogue, Church of the Sacred Heart, etc.




#4. The Singapore Flyer



The Singapore Flyer, is a Ferris wheel in Marina Centre, that takes you 165 metres above the ground level. The half an hour long ride will provide you a panoramic view of Singapore.







 We suggest you to plan for an evening ride as you two would then be able to enjoy a truly romantic view of Singapore.


 #5. Cable Car Ride, Mount Faber



If you are looking for a perfect spot to surprise your spouse on the honeymoon, then you can plan for an out-of-this-world dining experience in a cable car. It is a 90-minute ride that shuttles to and fro between Sentosa and Mount Faber thrice. This is one of the best ways to get cosy with your partner in Singapore, as you two gaze into the night sky while enjoying a romantic meal.









 If you want to make your experience even more romantic, then you can also opt for the cable car decorated with the flowers.




#6. Little Guilin Park



This place resembles the Guilin in China- a granite rock situated within a lake. It is one of the favourite spots among the couples for a romantic outing. Take a walk with your partner along the banks of the lake, and you might even reach some of the lookout points that are as high as a 10-storey building.







 The towering rock cliffs, tranquil lake and the lush greenery would provide an amazing backdrop for your romantic pictures.




#7. Stroll the Singapore River



Going on a cruise with your partner is a must when you are on your honeymoon in Singapore. So, book yourself for a cruise down the Singapore River to experience the amazing white sand beaches, mystifying ancient cities, colourful open-air markets, and lush tropical rainforests.








Enjoy the enthralling view of Singapore’s skyline with your partner to make yet another addition to the timeless memories of your life.











These 7 Cities Are The New Urban Wonders Of The World



 The Petronas Twin Towers in Kuala Lumpur are the tallest twin towers in the world. A global campaign to name various new Seven Wonders of the World has announced the results of its Cities competition.
The New7Wonders project was created by Bernard Weber in order to highlight some of the greatest natural and man-made wonders of the world not covered in the original list.  The Cities project is the third of Weber's installments — i n 2007, more than 100 million people voted in his New Seven Wonders of the World competition.
Weber’s latest campaign to find the best cities on Earth aimed to showcase the "cities that best represent the achievements and aspirations of our global urban civilization," according to the New7Wonders website.
The global competition began with more than 1200 nominees from 220 countries.  That list was reduced to 77, since there was a limit of one city per country. Then the 77 remaining cities were narrowed down by a panel of experts headed by  Federico Mayor, former director-general of UNESCO, to 28 suggestions.
Following the announcement of the 28 finalists, the winning seven cities were chosen by voters from around the world.
The seven winning cities beat out finalists such as Istanbul, London, St. Petersburg, Seoul, Reykjavik, and Chicago. None of the world’s seven winning cities are in Europe or the US.
Below are the seven cities that have been named the new urban wonders of the world (in alphabetical order):
1. Beirut, Lebanon
The capital city of Lebanon has been rebuilt several times due to unrest. Beirut's architecture is a stunning mix of modern, Ottoman, and colonial French.
The Middle Eastern hub is often referred to as "The Paris of the Mediterranean."
 2. Doha, Qatar
Qatar’s capital, Doha, first gained prominence when it began tapping into its expansive natural-gas reserves. Doha’s wealth of natural gas and oil have helped make Qatar one of the richest nations in the world — and Doha one of the world's most beautiful cities.
 3. Durban, South Africa
The beach city of Durban in the South African province of KwaZulu-Natal is the busiest port in Africa, but it's best known for its incredible beaches and surfing.
 4. Havana, Cuba
Havana is a centuries-old city covered in vibrant colors.  The historic center of Havana has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and for good reason.
 5. Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
The cultural hub of Malaysia, Kuala Lumpur is known for its towering skyscrapers. The iconic Petronas Twin Towers are the tallest twin buildings in the world.
 6. La Paz, Bolivia
Perched atop the Andes Mountains, La Paz is 11,975 feet above sea level. It is the highest capital city in the world.
  7. Vigan, Philippines
Vigan is one of the few Hispanic towns lefts intact in the Philippines. Known for its cobblestone-covered streets and unique architecture, the city is a World Heritage Site.


First five-star hotel in Indias North East opened in Guwahati



The first five-star hotel in India's northeastern region was inaugurated in Guwahati, Assam, recently.


Guwahati, known as the gateway to Northeast, has now become a growing hub for trade and commercial activity.





In the last few years, the city has witnessed a mushrooming of shopping malls, showrooms, apartment complexes and hotels.





The changing face of the city coupled with an expanding tourism sector is attracting many investors.















 Recently, the Radisson Blu, was officially inaugurated.







The hotel group is prospecting to open hotels in the state capitals of Northeastern states.





Raj Rana, CEO, Carlson Rezidor Hotel Group, South Asia, said, "I
think the Northeast has great potential. The infrastructure and
connectivity with other parts of the country is increasing every day.
The population here is well educated, modern and wants to experience
hotels like this. As more business comes in and of course the tourism
opportunity that Guwahati or entire Northeast offers, all this can be
built on further as long as good accommodation for people who come here
is available."










Nikhil Vahi, an official of a
hotel promoter group, said, "This hotel is a proof that everything is
really going on well here and this is a standing example of how nice
this part of the country is. There is a lot of potential in Assam and
Northeast. I see a lot of development happening. This will encourage
other developers and operators to come in to this part of the country."





With a booming economy and a steadily growing tourism sector, the hotel industry will only expand further.










Three more 5-star category hotels are coming up in Guwahati.





The growth of hospitality sector has also opened new job avenues for the youth in the region.





Arindham Mitra, a hotel employee, said, "Almost 70 per cent of the
employees and hotel staff is from the Northeast and 60 per cent is from
Assam only. It's very important. Also, it is a very good platform for
young hoteliers who are working in this hotel to get groomed and become
trained for the next level which is very important for them."





Boby Singh, an employee from Manipur, said, "This is amazing. This is
the first of its kind hotel here in Northeast and it has created a lot
of interest. It has created a lot of job opportunities as well."





The gradual return of peace and normalcy has brought about significant socio-economic change in the entire Northeast.



And in the coming years it will prosper manifold.


Japan scientists make see-through mice

Invisibility may still be the stuff of fictional works like Harry Potter, but researchers in Japan have developed a way to make mice almost totally transparent.
Using a method that almost completely removes colour from tissue -- and kills the mouse in the process -- researchers say they can now examine individual organs or even whole bodies without slicing into them, offering a "bigger picture" view of the problems they are working on.
The techniques will give scientists a "new understanding of the 3D structure of organs and how certain genes are expressed in various tissues," said Kazuki Tainaka, the lead author of a research paper published in the US-based Cell magazine.
"We were very surprised that the entire body of infant and adult mice could be made nearly transparent," he said in a statement issued by Japanese research institute RIKEN and its collaborators
The work, which also involved the University of Tokyo and the Japan Science and Technology Agency, focuses on a compound called haem, the constituent that gives blood its red colour and is found in most tissues of the body.
The process involves pumping a saline solution through the mouse's heart, pushing the blood out of its circulatory system and killing the creature.

 This picture released from Japanese research institute Riken on November 6, 2014 shows a decolorized mouse body and some organs glowing with fluorescence protein at the Riken laboratory.

This picture released by Japanese research institute Riken on November 6, 2014 shows a decolorized mouse body at the Riken laboratory.


A reagent is then introduced, which works to divorce the haem from the haemoglobin that remains in the animal's organs.
The dead mouse is skinned and soaked in the reagent for up to two weeks to complete the process.
A sheet of laser light, which can be set to penetrate to a specific level, builds up a complete image of the body, much as a 3D printer creates physical objects in layers.
"Microscopes have so far allowed us to look at things in minute detail, but that has also deprived us of the context of what we are looking at," Tainaka told AFP.
The new method, which cannot be applied to living things, "will give us details while enabling us to grasp the bigger picture," he said.
Hiroki Ueda, who led the research team, said in the statement that the method "could be used to study how embryos develop or how cancer and autoimmune diseases develop at the cellular level.
It was hoped the method would lead "to a deeper understanding of such diseases and perhaps to new therapeutic strategies".
"It could lead to the achievement of one of our great dreams: organism-level systems biology based on whole-body imaging at single-cell resolution."




Valparai: Waterfalls, wilderness and solace


Notes from an 80-km journey from the roaring Athirappilly waterfalls in Kerala to the forest-fringed tea plantations of Valparai in Tamil Nadu






 Ramya Sriram - Athirappilly Falls stages a rainbow


We kept our eyes peeled for leeches on the ground as we made our way to the waterfall. The stone steps, flanked by ferns, glistened with rain. We were visiting Athirappilly waterfalls in Kerala, which provided a grand beginning to our 80-km journey to Valparai in Tamil Nadu. We had chosen to take the famously scenic route through the thick Vazhachal forest in the Western Ghats.
The path to the waterfall was lined at frequent intervals with notice boards that reminded us that the forest and its resources were precious and vulnerable. Baby monkeys used the boards to perform gymnastics, while older ones looked unblinkingly at passers-by, possibly in hope of being fed.



 The Athirappilly Falls in full flow
The 80-foot waterfall is formed by the Chalakudy River, which seemed surprisingly tame, but cascaded over the edge of the mountain furiously into a turqoise pool below. The pool was surrounded by what looked like impenetrable deep green forest. To my delight, a lovely rainbow played towards the bottom of the waterfall, with the foam blurring its colours slightly.
A small signboard pointed the way to the bottom of the waterfall - Way to Full View. The steps were ignored in some places, where visitors preferred to take the steeper and muddy “short-cut”. We reached the bottom of the waterfall, and the little girl in front of me squealed, “Wow!” I echoed her. We were looking up at enormous columns of water that crashed on the rocks below dramatically, birthing a spray of cool water over us. I remembered a TV ad I’d once seen that likened streams and waterfalls to the veins of mother earth, with blood surging through them. I understood the analogy then!



 Curtains of water at Athirappilly Falls
I noticed that the way was completely clean and free of plastic, despite the numerous tourists there. A group of men sang a lilting Malalayam folk song as they descended the path, their voices mingling with the trill of cicadas.
Our next stop was at the Vazhachal waterfall, which ran over a gentler slope as compared to Athirappilly but was twice as loud. From a distance, it sounded like TV static noise, getting louder as we moved closer; then it was deafening. The Vazhachal forest is home to all the four species of hornbills (I didn’t spot any though). The route through the forest was quiet and deserted, except for the gurgling of the Chalakudy River, which travelled with us alongside. The forest was freshly washed by rain and everything from the ground to the treetops seemed to scream with life.



 Vazhachal Falls - less spectacular than Athirappilly but louder
As we approached Malakkapara, a mist descended on us, an almost-opaque white screen that I’ve seen so often in the Ghats. It cleared within minutes, like a curtain raiser for the next scene – a completely different landscape of tea gardens caressing the clouds. I always look at tea plantations with a mixture of delight (how pretty they look!) and sadness (if unpruned, the tea "shrub" grows into a magnificent tree) and guilt (I'm a tea-lover). On the way, we encountered the Upper Sholayar Dam, the second deepest in Asia, which provides water and electricity to neighbouring areas.
Our destination, Sinna Dorai’s bungalow, situated in Upper Paralai tea estate of Parry Agro, took some time to locate. Two charming women welcomed us with a drink that was sweet and fresh – iced tea. I noticed wooden benches outside the cottages where I could already picture my mother meditating early in the morning. It was so quiet that any conversation seemed disturbing and out of place.



 A peacock scans the valley in a Valparai tea plantation
The rooms were done up in teak, cane and jute, maintaining a tone of natural warmth. Food was hot and steaming – dal, roti, rice, sambar and rasam, all home-cooked – and served by smiling staff. The coconut soufflĂ© was a perfect end to the meal, and was followed by an hour of me battling existential questions – what was I doing living in a crowded, polluted city? I vowed, like every time I visit the Western Ghats, that I would move out and settle down in the hills.
In the evening, Murugan, our local guide, took us for a short walk around the Parry Agro estate on the road, which he said was “shared by elephants and bison”. Visitors are usually not allowed to roam around on their own “for their own safety as well as for safety of the animals.” I suspected the animals possibly needed more protection from humans than vice versa. As we walk, we hear bird calls – a magpie robin, Murugan tells us, the crooning of a spotted dove, and a loud, clear call of a peacock, which was so close that I jumped. It stood silhouetted against the twilight sky, before it spread its brown wings and swooped over the valley and disappeared into a tree. “Did you know peacocks could fly that far?” my mum asked in a hushed whisper. Murugan, amused by our wonder, said, “Wait till you hear the Malabar Whistling Thrush hold katcheris in the mornings.”



 A walk through Upper Paralai Estate

The Upper Paralai Estate is about 225 hectares in area and is exclusively dedicated to growing organic tea: “No chemicals, only neem cake and vermi-compost.” Silver oak trees, which help bind the soil, are planted in between the tea. “It is a light tree and falls easily,” Murugan said, upon which we backed away from the tree a little. “But it acts as good manure.” The tea is sold in five flavours - strawberry, peach, black currant, lemon mint and green apple. The 700 workers there are all provided with accommodation within the estate. Most of them send their children to the local school and college. Some of the other estates in Valparai belong to Tata, PKT, Jayashree Industries, NEPC and Woodbriar. Murugan stopped to pluck a fern leaf. He stamped it on his hand and sheepishly told us that it leaves a silver-white “tattoo” on the skin.

The bungalow boasts of a quaint library, well stocked with books, two Murphy radio sets and an ancient typewriter. An enormous log register from 1952 sits on the table, which has the names of the tea estate workers, the amount of work done per day and the corresponding pay. A cosy sitting room, complete with fireplace, includes a record player. The decor and serveware is exquisite – if you like a piece, you could request them to source it for you. Murugan tells us that the bungalow got its name from the local salutation for ‘Assistant Manager’. Back in the room, I read a letter from the current Sinnai Dorai himself, who made it quite clear that we behave ourselves, respect the environment, and not try any funny business with the animals.



 A pretty clock in the library at Sinna Durai's Bungalow in Valparai

A plethora of bright-eyed birds awaited us the next morning outside the cottage. It is always special to see dawn rise over the hills, gently prodding to life all things big and small. Shortly after, a siren sounded – the signal for the first batch of workers to begin their tasks for the day. Murugan appeared and ushered me down the slope into the tea gardens. Among the green, brown blobs moved heavily about. Gaur! We watched in silence as the gaur grazed on the grass among the tea (“No animal likes tea,” Murugan said. “Only we do.”)
We climbed up the steep slope to our cottage again, when he turned around suddenly and wildly gestured to me with a finger on his lips. He quietly parted the leaves of a bush and – OMG! I found myself staring straight at a leopard. Thankfully, it was a good distance away, but surely it was making eye contact with me? I was too nervous to move or reach for the camera. The staring match continued – I couldn’t tell who was more startled. Throughout, Murugan asked me to stay completely quiet and still. The leopard, bored of these seemingly inanimate creatures, turned around and bounded off into the trees. I was shivering with excitement – this was my first big cat sighting in the wild!
Over breakfast, the staff told us that wild animal sightings are extremely common in the area. Encounters are an everyday affair. “Elephants are fine as long as you get out of their path,” we are told. “If you confront it or poke a camera in its face, it may attack.” Though both tigers and leopards are found in the area, leopard attacks are more common. After a pause, Murugan added, “We are trespassing on their property, you know.”



cottage at Sinna Durai's Bungalow
Sinna Dorai’s bungalow, like most mountain getaways, offers tranquility and a chance to bond with nature. But more than that, it offers a way of living. I was impressed by the way its inhabitants and tea estate workers co-existed with the wilderness around them. It looked like a value system was firmly in place, respected and obeyed. For those who can adjust to being treated at par with their wild fellow-creatures and can appreciate and follow the code of conduct, this is the place. Just twenty-four hours in Valparai made me feel like I was moulting, shedding off a layer of the old and growing new skin. With its commitment to responsible travel, cool air and homely warmth, a visit to this bungalow can be described as nothing short of healing.
Ramya Sriram is a cartoonist, writer and founder ofThe Tap, her trove of visual and verbal stories. When not illustrating or translating ideas into comics, she’s hopping onto trains and running off to the mountains.








 Banks rose from the sides of the road, covered in roots and ferns, fungi and moss. Rock-faces seemed to melt into rivulets as water seeped through and over them. Boughs and lianas were smothered in moss, and epiphytes were everywhere. Creepers hung from branches like curtains and every bend in the road had a frothy, white, gushing waterfall. It looked like a set from the movies. The bigger characters in this drama –Nilgiri Langurs, Malabar Giant Squirrels and birds – seemed to respectfully give way to the small, the immobile, and the green. The setting breathed and pulsed with life – from the smallest snails chomping on leaves to the fairy lantern fungi that defied my camera to catch its color.




 And then there were the impatiens – little pink, fuchsia and white flowers that grow on wet rock. Whole beds, small clumps, and lone sentinels bending and twisting but holding their own under waterfalls. The sun had pushed its way through the thick blanket of grey and briefly spotlighted a moss here, a fern there. Tucking two cameras and one pair of binoculars under my new rain-jacket, I jumped out and took in a lungful of fresh, drizzly forest air.




 It was the paradise I’d imagined and longed to walk through. Vazhachal is a primary forest, albeit logged, and the trees were old growth. Electric transmission lines scarred the landscape at regular intervals, but around it foliage determinedly continued on. Fabulous as the scene was, there was a sinister undertone. A four-lane highway was to replace this 20-foot road. That meant that the ferns and the first few rows of trees would be cleared. It rankled, for with increased traffic and disturbance comes the scourge of the invasive species – the lantana, parthenium and eupatorium. And with that, this diversity of ferns and flora would be crowded out.




 Light was low and photography in that rain was a prayer. But for me, the quest for tack-sharp images respectfully retreated behind the grand drama of green that surrounded me. The dark of the rainforest in monsoon is what it is. Raindrops on every blade, every edge, every petal, every moss fruiting body, is life – as it unfolds. Hence, if blurry, grainy, and high-ISO images were to be a legacy of this trip, so be it.




 Soaking wet by now, finding a dry corner of my t-shirt to wipe my lens clean was nothing more than a dream. My knees were muddy from kneeling to take eye-level shots. I’d found a couple of leeches on my neck, one on my face and one on my lip. I’d no idea what else was inside my clothes. I was faced with a choice. Wetness and leeches can make one miserable. But I had one glorious day in such a forest, and a few hours to simply soak it all up. And so I took all my leech-bloody-wetness thoughts and locked it up in a small compartment in my head. Then I threw the key away. Access denied to negative emotions, I chased snails and sloshed across a stream to see insanely huge fungi. Clambering up mud walls and slip sliding on leaf litter, I was laughing inwardly at the sheer joy of being there.




It was dark by now – the sun had given up the fight with the clouds and called it a day. I looked at my camera. Surely the lens would be kaput the next day. Fogged up at a minimum. And we’d probably see the highly endangered lion-tailed macaques up close, and I’d have nothing to photograph them with. Well, I thought to myself, there is a way out. I would just have to soak up that experience so deep that I’d remember it forever. Leaning back on the by-now-oh-so-wet Scorpio seat, I smiled a broad, satisfied smile.